Denmark, Sweden, Norway. In this order at the Bocuse d’Or 2019 the world’s best chefs on the podium stand according to the competition established in 1987 to reward the talents of haute cuisine. Unfortunately, nothing to do for Italy despite the good performance of Martino Ruggieri. At the culinary competition, with 24 teams from all over the world, Italy was represented by the team of the Apulian chef Martino Ruggieri. It was the first edition of the competition since its inventor, Paul Bocuse, one of the creators of Nouvelle Cuisine, died. And a long standing ovation was dedicated to him.
The gold statuette shines then in the hands of chef Kenneth Toft-Hansen and commis Christian Wellendorf Kleinert (who also won the prize for best commis), coached by Rasmus Kofoed of the Geranium restaurant in Copenhagen, famous for having obtained the bronze, silver and gold in three consecutive editions. Then Sweden with chef Sebastian Gibrand, commis Gustav Leonhardt (coach Tommy Myllymäki) and Norway with chef Christian André Pettersen, commis Havard André Josdal Ostebo and coach Gunnar Hvarnes.
The competition is considered the most important test in the career of a young chef, so much so that the 24 finalists must pass exams demanding both from the point of view of creativity and technical skills. All in front of an audience of supporters who has nothing to envy to fans of a Champions League final.
The two tests of this edition were dedicated to two great French chefs who had just disappeared: the same Paul Bocuse, founder of the competition, and Joël Robuchon who was the first and last honorary president of the Bocuse d’Or. The theme to be presented on tray, chosen in honor of Paul Bocuse, is the calf carré with 5 ribs (of which also to cook offal); the one on flat, the interpretation of a Chartreuse of vegetables with crustaceans.
La Chartreuse, which in Italian can be translated as “alla certosina” is not only a liqueur, but also a small fish soup (also writes Pellegrino Artusi) but also a terrine of vegetables and fish, molluscs and / or crustaceans as in this case. The competitors had to prepare two, of 8 portions each, identical, hot, composed of at least 50% of vegetable products and stuffed with a filling of four types of molluscs. Although the dimensions of the Chartreuse are imposed – they can not exceed 20 cm in diameter – the interpretation of the recipe is free.
That of Italy, represented by Martino Ruggieri, sous chef of Yannick Allenò at the Pavillion Ledoyen in Paris, had many plaudits, but it was not enough. His “Chartreuse a l’Italienne” was an interpretation in elegant butterfly form, in “camouflage” style: among the different elements of the plate, whose layers are a tribute to nature with its colors and biodiversity, even an unprecedented insertion of risotto in the dish. He called her “Italian rhapsody in the form of a butterfly” and, in detail, presents itself as a reinterpretation of a sea risotto with vegetables and spinach, complete with a vegetable flower, that is fresh vegetables from the local market stalls, served as a Piedmontese salad. Then puntarelle marinated in the water of seafood. The marinara sauce is a classic and rich Italian sauce with Mediterranean herbs and aromas.
Per quanto riguarda il vassoio, il Carrè di vitello da latte era ispirato alle piazze delle città Creative UNESCO per la gastronomia.
His name? “Creations of avant-garde gastronomy, full of traditions.” Several dishes on the plate, including a brave Macaroni with Roman pajata, mushrooms with marsala, spiced carrots with dried flowers, veal salad with legs green salad, stuffed with veal legs and creamy vinaigrette), Venetian sauce made with white onion, liver and meat reduction.
The jury of the award, of which he is president Jerome Bocuse, son of Paul, has also given the special prize for the best promotional poster to Tunisia. It is announced that the next European selection (the last one was in Turin) will be held in Tallinn, Estonia in 2020.
The two days of competitions took place in a climate of great emotion, because it is the first edition in 32 years without its founder. In fact, a Jerome close to tears reminded his father to whom they gave a minute of applause.